Baking Business – February/March

By Kirsten Tibballs

All Things Chocolate

Chocolate is one of the most versatile ingredients that we use today. It can be used on its own or to compliment and harmonise with other ingredients. Here is some information to enable you to make an educated choice when purchasing your next order of chocolate.

As chocolate will be in such high demand (for consumption and conversation) for the next while, it’s good to have the basics of chocolate down – specifically understanding how chocolate is made, the difference between types of chocolate and how to work with it. Not all chocolates are created equal, so it’s important to know what you’re working with, and why, when it comes to creating delectable treats, especially during Easter.

Firstly, it’s important to understand that differences in chocolate lie far beyond flavour; while we may have friends who favour one brand over another, or one type more than the next, it’s important to understand chocolate as an entire industry. Choosing a chocolate has further consequences than just how it tastes.

Cocoa farming has been happening for decades, and thanks to reforms, better practices and greater awareness around sustainability and ethical work conditions have improved with each decade too. Chocolate may be highly sought after, but that doesn’t take away from the 500,000 cocoa farmers who are living in extreme poverty. Or, the 2.03million children that were found doing hazardous cocoa work in Ghana and Cote D’Ivoire by Tulane University.

Along with concerning work conditions, the sustainability of the cocoa industry is very important. Farmers are often uneducated about better farming practices. Educating framers can enable them to achieve a better yield of cocoa and maintain soil for a longer life of cocoa bearing trees. The difference can be a maximum of 15 years where the tree will stop bearing cocoa. With a well maintained farm a farmer can get 50 years of crop from a cocoa tree. Farmers, who are working in impoverished conditions, can’t afford the resources or tools to better farm their crops. By better resourcing farmers through tools and education, their crops can prosper greatly, and their land is better cultivated to sustain further growth.

If we don’t make changes now in a few years we are going to find a drastic reduction in the production of cocoa which will drive chocolate prices up substantially. If farmers are not making money from cocoa, they will move to more profitable crops like rubber.

Choosing chocolate from a supplier who is committed to positive change can play a big part in the future of our chocolate. Taste, texture, finish and price are the primary concerns for most people when purchasing chocolate. I’d suggest that you also look at the greater value of what your chocolate supplier is bringing to the industry. Do some research before committing to a brand or a supplier – Callebaut, the brand that I choose to use and am an ambassador for, has an entire sustainability program dedicated to making the cocoa industry sustainable by 2020 by educating farmers.

Compound vs Couverture

There are two main types of chocolate used in Australia, compound and couverture chocolate.

Couverture chocolate is made with cocoa butter and cocoa liquor. Directly from the cocoa bean. Couverture is superior in flavour and quality. If you are using couverture on its own it needs to be tempered. If it is combined with other ingredients it doesn’t.

Compound chocolate is made with cocoa powder (instead of cocoa liquor) and hydrogenated oil (instead of cocoa butter). This makes it able to be melted and set on its own without tempering. However, the oil is usually a trans- fat, which is when manufacturers turn liquid oils, usually palm oil, into solid fats by adding hydrogen to it. Manufacturers of compound chocolate use hydrogenated and fractioned vegetable oils such as soyabean oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil and palm oil, which contain high levels of trans fatty acids. This lifts the melting point of the fat.

Which means our bodies find it difficult to melt and process. It coats our palate and clogs our arteries. Alarmingly, some compound chocolates have been found to have trans- fat levels of up to 50%! Of course, the use of hydrogenated and fractioned vegetable oils also negatively effects the environment, as cultivating the plants and products to produce the oils uses more energy and more crops.

Compound chocolate and trans-fats are banned in many countries due to the long term health implications.

Here are some basics to know when it comes to working with chocolate:

Storing – Chocolate is best stored in a cool dry place that’s not close to any other pungent or aromatic foods.

Melting chocolate – I’m a big advocate for using the microwave when melting chocolate – by heating it in 30-second increments you can monitor it and don’t have a problem with steam when melting it on the stove.

Tempering chocolate – tempering is controlling the way we melt and set the couverture which controls the crystals present in the cocoa butter. It’s imperative to heat couverture to a point where all the crystals are melted initially, which is about 45C. From this point you can add in 20% chocolate buttons and stir it through vigorously. Do a test a piece of silicon paper if it sets at room temperature and has a clear mat finish your chocolate is tempered. For more in-depth information, you can watch our tempering video on our YouTube page @Savourschool.

Knowing when to melt and when to temper – figuring out if you should melt or temper your chocolate, it’s best to use melted chocolate when it’s being used as an ingredient. However, if the chocolate will be used as a garnish or for dipping, then temper your chocolate. And remember to only temper chocolate that has cocoa butter in it.

One of the things I love the most about chocolate is the versatility to create so many different products. Flowers, garnishes or pralines, there are so many possibilities to wow others and delight taste buds. Understanding the principles of chocolate, and the source of where your chocolate comes is of great importance.

So as you prepare your moulds, or dream up delectable Easter themed creation, I encourage you to go back to basics, and always go back to where the bean came from.

 

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Win a Trip to Ghana – Callebaut Cocoa Plantation Tour 2017

ghana1Callebaut Chocolate and F. Mayer Imports want to take you on a 5 day tour to the second largest cocoa producing country in the world, Ghana, West Africa.

You can be part of a group of Australian chefs, bakers, pastry chefs, chocolatiers and industry professionals to visit cocoa plantations and chocolate production facilities in October 2017.

ENTRY FORM AND FULL TERMS & CONDITIONS 

You will experience all aspects of production from growing, harvesting, fermenting and drying of the cocoa beans to final production of the cocoa bean to cocoa mass/cocoa nibs.

The trip will also take you to local sights of interest and cultural significance. The complete itinerary will be confirmed by mid 2017.

TO ENTER

callebaut-10kg

Submit 5 x labels from any of the following Callebaut products: 811, 2815, 823, W2 – 10kg Callets or 5kg Blocks (either size or packaging variance)

OR

callebaut-25

Submit 8 x labels from any of the following Callebaut products: 811, 823, W2, 703038 – 2.5kg Packaging

OR

calebaut-origin

Submit 1 x label from any of the following Callebaut products: Madagascar, Equador, Sao Thome, Arriba, Java, Power Milk 41%, Power Dark 80% or any Fairtrade variance.

Take advantage of our 20% OFF offer, save the barcodes and you could be on your way to chocolate heaven!
USE PROMO CODE AT CHECKOUT: GHANA17

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Download FREE the Savour Patissier of the Year 2016 eBook

Savour Patissier of the YearThe 2016 Savour Patissier of the Year competition was a great success and to celebrate  we are giving away the 2016 Savour Patissier of the Year eCookbook for FREE. (limited time only)

This eBook features:

  • Four categories of products from the competition including Macarons, Eclairs, Tarts and Entremets
  • The Top 10 products from each category as judged by Frank Haasnoot, Jordi Bordas, Julien Alvarez and Paul Kennedy
  • 4 bonus recipes from the People’s Choice Winners
  • Stunning images by renowned photographer Richard Weinstein

We hope the Savour Patissier of the Year eBook can celebrate the amazing pastry chefs who participated and the spectacular flavors that were created.

If you do attempt to recreate any of the stunning decorations from the book, we would love for you to post and tag us on Instagram @savourpatissieroftheyear

Go to our eBook page to subscribe and receive your free copy.

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Raspberry Cream Tart by Kirsten Tibballs

Raspberry Cream Tart

By Kirsten Tibballs at Savour
www.savourschool.com.au

Makes 2 x 20cm tarts

Equipment required

  • Stone surface for chocolate curls
  • Thermometer
  • Tweezers
  • Saucepans
  • Microwave
  • Plastic bowl for the microwave
  • 5 x flat trays
  • Disposable piping bags
  • Scissors
  • Ladle
  • Small sieve
  • Assorted bowls
  • Stand Mixer x 2
  • Paddle attachment for mixer
  • Whisk attachment for mixer

Breton Shortbread

  • 168g      Unsalted Butter
  • 168g      Caster Sugar
  • 4g           Salt
  • 72g        Egg Yolks
  • 230g      Plain Flour
  • 22g        Baking Powder
  • QS          Callebaut Mycryo Cocoa Butter

Mix the butter, caster sugar and the salt in an electric mixer with a paddle attachment. Add the egg yolks and then finally the flour and baking powder. Press the dough in a flat square, wrap and chill for an hour. Roll out on a bench lightly dusted with flour to a 1cm thickness. Cut into a 20cm disc with a cake ring. Place the pastry on a lined tray and place the cake ring on the outside. Bake at 170°C for 15 minutes or until golden brown. Run a knife around the edge of the ring while it is still hot and dust it with Mycryo to seal the pastry.

 Raspberry Jelly

  • 7g           Gold Gelatine Sheets
  • 230g      RaviFruit Frozen Raspberry Puree, defrosted
  • 35g        Caster Sugar

Pre-soak the gelatine sheets in a bowl of cold water until soft and pliable and then mix together with one third of the defrosted puree and the sugar. Heat to approximately 60°C and then add the remaining defrosted puree.

White Chocolate Chantilly Cream

  • 210g      Callebaut W2 white chocolate
  • 300g      Bulla Thickened Cream 35% Fat (A)
  • 30g        Liquid Glucose
  • 1 tsp      Heilala Vanilla Bean Paste
  • 440g      Bulla Thickened Cream (B)

Melt the chocolate until hot. Boil cream A with the glucose and vanilla bean paste. Whisk it together with the melted chocolate. Add the liquid cream B and mix together. Place in the fridge for 24 hours before whipping.

Chocolate Curls

  • 400g Callebaut white chocolate W2

 To create your curls, temper your preferred couverture. You can follow our tempering instructions on our YouTube page (@savourschool). Place the tempered couverture on to a stone surface and spread it with a palate knife. Work it backward and forward until the couverture starts to resist. With a metal scraper working away from yourself, place the scraper on the surface of the couverture and with firm pressure scraping on a diagonal, scrape the chocolate to form tapered cigarettes.

Assembly

  • 1 punnet of fresh Raspberries

 Place the raspberry jelly into the centre of the cooled baked tart and place in the fridge to set for an hour. Once set, pipe Chantilly cream on the tart with a Saint Honore piping tube. Place fresh raspberries and chocolate curls in the centre.

 

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Christmas with the Queen of Chocolate

Christmas Wreath from Cake Bake & Sweet Show Melbourne 2016

By Kirsten Tibballs at Savour
www.savourschool.com.au

 

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Makes 1 x mousse cake in the Silikomart Lady Queen mould

Equipment

  • Freezer
  • Microwave
  • Plastic bowl for the microwave
  • 5 x flat trays
  • Disposable piping bags
  • Scissors
  • Ladle
  • Small sieve
  • Assorted bowls
  • Stand Mixer x 1
  • Whisk attachment for mixer
  • Wire rack for glazing
  • Stone surface for chocolate work
  • Thermometer
  • Tweezers
  • Saucepans

Shortbread base

  • 150g      Unsalted butter
  • 250g      Plain Flour
  • 65g        Free Range Eggs
  • 100g      Icing Sugar
  • 25g        Almond Meal
  • Pinch of Salt
  • Plain flour for dusting

 

Combine the butter and flour in a bowl with a paddle attachment on a KitchenAid Mixer. Bring it to a crumb texture and add in the eggs and dry ingredients. Bring together as a dough and press into an even flat square. Place the shortbread in the fridge for up to an hour or until it becomes firm enough to roll out. Lightly dust the bench surface with flour and roll out the shortbread to a 3mm thickness. Cut a ring 50mm inside and 200mm outside. Bake 170°C for 10-12 minutes or until a light golden brown colour.

 

Raspberry Jelly

  • 22g        Gold Gelatine Sheets
  • 500g      Frozen Raspberry Puree, defrosted
  • 375g      Caster Sugar

 

Pre-soak the gelatine in cold water until soft and pliable. Place an additional 2 large frames on the prepared frames. Take one third of the defrosted raspberry puree and combine with the sugar. Heat until all the sugar is dissolved and then add in the pre-soaked gelatine. Remove from the heat and add the remaining defrosted puree and mix well. Place into a Silikomart Lady Queen insert mould and freeze.

 

Sugar coated almonds

  • 25g        Water
  • 35g        Caster Sugar
  • 125g      Almond Splinters
  • 10g        Pure Icing Sugar

 

Place the water and sugar into a saucepan and boil until the sugar dissolves. Remove from the heat and pour the sugar syrup over the slithered almonds and combine. Place the coated almonds onto a tray lined with a Silpat mat and dust with the icing sugar.

Place the prepared almonds into the oven and bake at 170°c. for approximately 10-12 minutes. In short intervals turn over the almonds with a spatula to ensure even roasting. Cool the almonds at room temperature.

 

Festive Mousse

  • 60g        Caster Sugar
  • 30g        Water
  • 60g        Egg Yolks
  • 2             Heilala Vanilla beans
  • 3.5g       Gold Gelatine Leaves
  • 130g      Callebaut White Chocolate Velvet
  • 25g        Glaze cherries
  • 25g        Glace orange
  • 25g        Sugar coated almond*
  • 25g        Dark Chocolate Chips
  • 345g      Bulla Thickened Cream 35% fat, semi whipped

 

Boil the sugar and water to 123°C. Pour over the whisked egg yolks, add the glaze cherries and glace orange and continue to whisk until it cools slightly (to create a pate bombe). Soak the gelatine in cold water until soft and pliable. Once soft drain off the excess water and heat in the microwave for 30 seconds or until melted, do not heat above 80°C. Melt the white chocolate to approximately 60°C and fold through ¼ of the semi whipped cream. Continue folding and add the pate bombe. Add a small amount of this mixture to the melted gelatine and mix together before adding back into the mousse and folding through. Lastly fold through the remainder of the semi whipped cream and add the vanilla beans. Weigh in 150g per mould on top of the raspberry jelly, level it out and place in the freezer.

 

Assembly

Pipe the festive mousse halfway into a Silikomart Lady Queen mould. Push it up the sides of the mould with a spoon. Place in the frozen raspberry jelly and fill to the top of the mould with remaining mousse. Freeze for a minimum of 6 hours.

 

Chocolate Glaze

 

Ingredients

  • 240g      Fresh Cream 35% Fat
  • 50g        Water
  • 360g      Caster Sugar
  • 120g      Callebaut Cocoa Powder 22-24%
  • 100g      Neutral Glaze
  • 10g        Gold Gelatine Sheets

Method

Pre-soak the gelatine in a bowl of chilled water until it becomes soft and pliable. Drain off the excess water and leave the gelatine at room temperature. Bring the cream, water and sugar to boil. Add the cocoa powder and neutral glaze and return to a boil. Emulsify with a stick blender, add the pre-soaked gelatine and strain. Place plastic wrap on the surface of the glaze. Allow the glaze to cool to between 32-35°C before glazing the frozen mousse.

Finishing

  • Chocolate holly leafs
  • Chocolate pinecones
  • Chocolate reindeers
  • Gold Metallic powder
  • 24 carat gold leaf
  • Chocolate bells
  • Red chocolate ribbon loops

 

Garnish the wreath with prepared chocolate garnishes and dust with gold metallic.

 

 

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